Richard Bastien, left, and Jérémie Bastien bring a strong pedigree to Montreal’s Monarque. Lesley Chesterman says that in 20 years of reviewing, she can think of no other restaurant as impressive.

Monarque Restaurant Helmed by hospitality veterans and father-and-son duo Richard and Jérémie Bastien, this 150-seat brasserie, which opened last summer, is gilded and glamorous.