I remember it as if it happened yesterday: I strolled into the seafood section of a Hong Kong market after a long absence as a student oversees and stopped dead in my tracks. I had forgotten. I ...

Seafood restaurants like Steamboat Bill’s, BeauxDines’ and Mr. Bills are welcoming in customers as the busy season kicks off. “I grew up in Baton Rouge, so I eat seafood all the time, but especially ...